Brasserie Zedel
Brasserie Zedel, Piccadilly, London
The pre-theatre meal is an often overlooked but highly influential piece of the British Zeitgeist. It screams of that pair of Mango heels your Mum bought for the occasion, paying for everything in cash, and a 3-course prix fixe menu where smoked salmon and a £5 supplement ribeye are featured without fail.
As the London’s West End became more accessible in the mid 2000’s, I had the opportunity to witness some life changing and sexuality affirming pieces of theatre - including as Idina Menzel’s penultimate show in Wicked - and with it became indoctrinated into the world of ‘dinner and a show.’
I have long sought for a restaurant that epitomises the essence of ‘dinner and a show,’ and i’ve found it - Brasserie Zedel.
The vibe.
Brasserie Zedel is one of the most charming and consistent dining destinations in central London. It never fails to deliver on its promise of faux Parisian charm, although the grandeur of Brasserie Zedel may not be instantly apparent.
Hidden beneath the gaudy façade of Piccadilly Circus, when you first descend a flight of stairs adorned with references to Moulin Rouge and Toulouse-Lautrec, you do wonder whether your entering a new extension to Disneyland themed around Ratatouille.
After shimmying past a porcelain bust of Napoleon, you are instantly transported to a 1930’s Art Deco ballroom where the buzz of vibrant conversation, live jazz and flowing vin rouge can’t help but put a smile on your cynical little face.
Zedel isn’t one restaurant. It’s an establishment which houses multiple venues that cater to every kinky French role-playing whim. The American Bar is a dark wood-panelled cocktail den that serves up drinks named after Edith Piaf, alongside complimentary marmite popcorn. Next door is Crazy Coqs Club, a highly respected music venue oft frequented by washed up theatre stars and aspiring jazz singers.
The main restaurant flexes an equal amount of polish, with a single ounce of pretence. En route to our table my eyes were drawn to the gilded marble pillars, whilst my nostrils were taken with the scent of high street perfumes. Ah, I’m home.
The service has a refreshing candour. The waitresses are effortlessly charming but clearly could not give a fuck. Very French, but not like Le Relais De Venise where they’re just rude.
The food.
Gone are the days where authentic French brasserie cuisine is elusive and hard to come by. Now there’s an abundance of warmly lit ballrooms with drippy candles offering a little slice of French cafe culture.
But none offer Coutts card French delicacies at Monzo card prices like Brasserie Zedel. Their flagship Prix Fixe comes out at staggering £10.95 for two courses. While we mutely considered some of the other appealing French classics, it’s game over once you’ve seen that price.
The Prix Fixe consists of Steak Haché, Sauce au Poivre and Frites followed by a Delice au Chocolat Noir. As you can never have enough Frites we ordered an extra portion to share, as well as a punchy salad and creamed spinach - because you can never enrage your IBS enough.
We wolfed down our dinner in a divine peppery haze. The steak was perfectly cooked, leaning into pink, and sat on a perfect puddle of pepper sauce, ripe for mopping with bread and frites. The salad cut through the richness and a well-priced carafe of red wine washed it all down with cosmopolitan savoir faire.
One small niggle was the fact that the food came freakishly quickly. And while I imagine they have an army of chefs churning out Steak Hache on a war footing, our meal arrived so quickly it may as well have been made by conjured up by Hermione Granger.
The verdict.
Brasserie Zedel could so easily be awful, but it’s actually rather wonderful. With Pizza Express style consistency, diners aren’t tasked with settling on what 7 small dishes to have, and can instead relax into company and conversation.
As my my first indoor dining experience of 2021, Brasserie Zedel was dazzling. And for a very brief moment, I felt a flutter of emotion as jazz standards poured out of the live band bobbing in the corner of the restaurant. I quickly snapped out of it, pulling myself together to return to my usual programming of dry, snarky, self loathing.
Thank you Brasserie Zedel for keeping the ‘Dinner and a Show’ concept alive. Keep doing what you’re doing, and please don’t raise your prices.
Was the food stunning 4/5 - Simple, full-flavoured and unpretentious
The vibe 5/5 – Unique and fun. Ideal for any, and all occasions.
Scream factor 1789/5– A Les Mis level of French revolution inspired tropes - Liberté, égalité, fraternité!
Pricey? some of the best valued food and drink in central London
Would you recommend to someone you just met at a party –Oui Oui! Bring your wife, bring your mistress!
