I’m a slut for MSG (& Mao Chow)

Mao Chow, Hackney, London

There is a ton of controversy surrounding MSG.

Growing up in painfully organic Brighton, E numbers like MSG were demonised, with the fury generated by their existence matched only by a lack of effective cycle lanes.

Often less examined, however, is the racism that pervades the discussion around MSG. To this day, unfounded and unsubstantiated claims are being peddled, including that the consumption of MSG – often found in Chinese cooking - is linked asthma, headaches, and even brain damage. Thankfully these falsehoods are being dismantled by campaigners like ‘Know MSG’, who are not only tackling the racist misinformation head on, but are passionate about letting the public know about how delicious MSG really is.

That’s why, upon arriving at the seriously, seriously good Mao Chow in Hackney, I was delighted to see their proud proclamation of support for MSG.

There it was, like a Bernie Sanders bumper sticker. ‘YES! WE USE MSG!’ Was this dainty, all vegan, Chinese street food hut at the heart of the grassroots movement to help bring MSG back into Hackney? Was THIS the return of the Labour Party?! Is THIS our Stonewall?

Who knows, but my god the MSG laden food was sensational.

The menu consisted of a mere 6 dishes, all equal in identity and appeal. The “meaty” veg dumplings drenched in chilli oil “so good you could drink” were true to their name, hearty yet surprisingly delicate with a good dose of Chinese chive bringing a garlicy edge to proceedings. 

Two contrasting vegetable dishes followed – whole roasted Yuxiang aubergine in a fragrant fake fish sauce and a generous pile of green beans in a timeless black bean dressing . Both dishes left you scraping for every single last morsel on the plate. 

Meanwhile the burning noodles, which sat on a umami moat of fragrant, oily goodness, was one of the best noodle dishes I’ve eaten in a long time. Relatively unassuming at first, it’s only once you mixed the carefully crafted elements together – including punchy pickled mustard greens, sesame seeds and a heaping of noodles - are you left beaming at the layers and layers of flavour.

Mao Chow gave me one of the most delicious meals I’ve had in a long time. Do yourself a favour and don’t balk when you see MSG. Support it, embrace it, savour it, and devour it.