Pophams Bakery
Pophams Bakery, Hackney
Pophams is the type of place where you look around at the clientele and think ‘wow, you all earn over £50,000 without sacrificing your moral integrity.’
No city boys here. Just VICE-working, V&A tote bag swinging, beanie wearing east Londoners. Like Soho House, but for people who do Veganuary.
Pophams’ USP is bakery by day, pasta by night, so after too many mornings queueing in the rain for an almond croissant, I thought it was about time to try their dinner offering.
The vibe.
I would love to take the piss out of the hygge style décor, homemade pottery plates, and swathes of pinot quaffing pals. But as you walk into the warm, candle-lit den you can’t help but be taken in by its exposed concrete allure.
The hosts of this oasis were cool and knowledgeable, educating us on topics ranging from the difference between agnolotti and cappelletti all the way to what we should pair with a crisp southern Italian white wine. On reflection, there’s not that much between those two topics but I think the waitress was flirting with me a little bit so I was into it.
I felt instantly at ease. It had a genuine buzz - which in the middle of global pandemic that’s quite a feat - and if it wasn’t for the hand sanitiser on arrival, and the next table being halfway across the Atlantic, I might have forgotten that we were in tier 2346.
The food.
Now, I know that in the right mood I could describe a £3 meal deal as the best thing I’ve ever eaten, but the Pophams sourdough is the best bread I’ve ever eaten.
Granted, it’s a bakery, but the bread really was sensational. Warm, crusty yet soft, with the slight sweetness of maple butter cutting through a salty after taste.
To follow, the orrechione with cruschi peppers soared. A deep, peppery sauce not dissimilar to nduja was an instant flavour explosion. To pair, a well-balanced triangolotti dish with fresh carrot, chervil and buttery goats cheese contrasted perfectly. The only dud was a slightly misjudged tomato pasta that was just a little bland. But that can be forgiven because fresh tomato pastas are hard to nail, and frankly the other offerings were too delicious.
The verdict.
In the sea of trendy pasta restaurants in London it’s easy to get lost, but Pophams offer plenty in the way of vibrant, innovative flavours, elevating the trendy pasta experience to new trendy pasta heights.
Also, everyone in there was really fit.
Was the food stunning 4.5/5 - Best pasta I’ve had in a long time
The vibe 4.5/5 - Genuinely inviting, brilliant service, great lighting
Scream factor 3/5 - Made me scream in the way that all of East London makes me scream
Pricey? I’d say about right, but maybe I’ve become too accustomed to paying top draw for pasta
Would you recommend to someone you just met at a party - Yes! And I almost definitely have! hAvE YoU BEEn To POPhaMs!?